I apologize in advance but I need this answer ASAP please;
Got Acer aspire 5610
doing a format fro customer; hdd is blank so no windows.
can not boot of cd cause boot order wrong
I have board out and two problems (btw I already tried several 'backdoor' BIOS passwords for Acer and Phoenix BIOS no luck)
prob1_c-mos battery is soldered on MB; I have never seen this before. I dont know how to get it off and back on safely and i have no replacement in stock if i destroy it
prob2_I found a c-mos reset. the problem is it is plastic. Instead of two contacts to jump, there is just one 3x5mm piece of what looks like plastic or very tightly attached heat-resistant foil next to a label 'cmos', right next to RAM controller. how do I jump that? and should c-mos battery be out first?
(Solved) - BIOS password; ACER(15 posts)
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I apologize in advance but I need this answer ASAP please;
This is a customer machine, I did a ton of work for this guy already at a really fair price, aside from the format which I planned on doing last I tested his bayyery, cord, RAM...took out his HDD scanned and fixed it; sold him a DVD drive (with a faceplate even!) that I happend to have in stock. Cheap. and dissasembled his unit down to board, cleaned/reshimmed heatsink and CPU and replaced all the missing screws. Hours and hours of work, as I am trying to make this first time customer happy. Now, I cant even do the format cause I can not get it to boot. I will not be able to charge him, have done all the work for free, and probably make him thin i am a dumbass cause his tech level is like a minus 2 so he isnt going to understand what the issue is. He plans on picking it up three to four hours from now (had it since yesterday evening) and if I can get started on the format (easy XP) with updates/drivers/av program and basic system settings I can just barely squeeze it out by then so that is why I said please hurry if possible. And I dont have a photobucket acct so I cant even upload a pic to show you what the issue is.ugh
try to heat to heat the cmos battery on one side to disconnect the circuit, then re solder see if it resets the bios .
mark. you will then need to recreate the c:\ partition useing the winXp disk.ps if you have the o/s install disk you can create the partition usein tha disk you will still need to break the connection to the battery about 15/20 min.
that battery aint goin to take much more of my clumsy soldering; one side disconnected im just leaving it cause the other side is right up against board and i dont want to ruin it; it was a poor job in the first place. how ho w i do pics again LH im going to have to put a few up
and heres what i read about resetting the c-mos (if this doesnt work) . one of you will have to explain this jumper to me :
Remove all sources of power, i.e. battery, usb devices, ac supply, etc. and then press the power button down for 30 seconds....see if that helps as it would reset the BIOS..!!
If still no success, you need to clear CMOS.
DO if you are comfortable and on your risk.
there is CMOS clear jumper
it next to the RAM slots.
this is tricky, the jumper is not a switch or like on a HDD a small piece of plastic. it just a small patch of soldier contacts.
that you have to bridge with a small piece of copper wire or tin foil.
once bridgd remove battery and powe ron yout laptop and shutdown.
it will clear CMOS, unbridge and put everything in place.
It will resolve the issue.
(didnt post link cause they charge 50.00 per answer)
Heres my only other idea if this doesnt work; i have a travelmate 2480 with XP. It has a intel chipset; something like a 945 945G express 945 whatever. The aspire has something similar. of course the TM has an IDE HDD and the other sATA....so I was going to try cloning the travelmates HDD to a laptop sATA and then if it boots uninstall all the drivers, reinstall correct ones, then authenicate license, and it should be good to go. Think that will work?
along with disconnecting the cmos i also used a copper shim to jump the labed cmos posts; one of the two worked. I booted into BIOS and set up the time. powered down disconnected cord, let it sit for 20 min, rebooted into BIOS...time and date held. Saved my ass on this one. So as a thank you, I will put up a detailed picture walk through of what I did for the rest of the members. So one more time, to post pics the only way is to create a profile at photobucket, is that correct? (It will be a few hours til the post is done and I will put it on this thread.) Thanks again.
isnt that the name of the device that hooks up to the chip directly to reflash the chip...i have the name wrong cause i dont know what the letters stand for, but its the integrated (or as ive understood sometimes seperate) chip, that works with/within the BIOS where the cmos/bios password is saved. That chip is the reason why BIOS passwords are so hard to get rid of. Usually you have to replace the BIOS chip, send it in the the manufactuer, or replace the MB. (and as long as youre breaking my balls ill keep going so you can make sure i dont have it wrong) Ive read in a few places that a device called a [insert name im tyring to say here] flasher exist, but they are expensive and very software-complicated so you need advanced training/experience/practice to use. Although replacing the BIOS or the eprom or eeprom erom or whatever is the surest way to get past the password, along with replacing the whole board, there is software that you can try. Its like 'wildcard' software; some written to run from windows, some from DOS and some from Linux or a Linux boot cd.....It has a 50-50 success rate however it can also 'blow up' the BIOS chip or the cmos and effectively make it so you still have to replace chip/board. And I have a few of those programs (most untested; one works, but as the machine we were talking about had no OS and would not boot from DVD drive, I couldnt run any of them) but they are a crapshoot and can ruin the chip. so, fact check me, how far off am i?
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