http://www.howtogeek.com/forum/ How-To Geek Forums Topic: 1st PC build: Ci7 - looking for advice en Tue, 24 Nov 2009 21:10:27 +0000 http://www.howtogeek.com/forum/topic/1st-pc-build-ci7-looking-for-advice#post-97966 Mon, 06 Jul 2009 02:40:32 +0000 Flo 97966@http://www.howtogeek.com/forum/ <p>HDD: ok well I looked through the replies, and I thank everyone for their input. I believe I'll simply go for the <a href="http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822136074">Western Digital Caviar SE16</a>. When w7 comes out, I'll look into getting an SSD if I deem it beneficial.</p> <p>UNfortunately, the cd/dvd drive I selected is currently out of stock, and i would like to make my purchase before july 15th to take advantage of the numerous rebates. Does anyone have another model to suggest, be it on newegg or from another source? the other ones on newegg don't seem to have great reviews.</p> <p>cheers,<br /> flo </p> http://www.howtogeek.com/forum/topic/1st-pc-build-ci7-looking-for-advice#post-97800 Sat, 04 Jul 2009 23:47:55 +0000 ispalten 97800@http://www.howtogeek.com/forum/ <p>Scott, UPS's are very good to have, especially if you live in a bad weather zone and experience frequent brownouts and power drops.</p> <p>Older OS's were more prone to damage (W9x, Windows 3.x, DOS) as they held open the FAT tables and directories. Mind you, modern OS's can do that too, especially RAID systems. Check your drive properties. You can 'improve' performance with 'late writes'. That is the OS returns a completion code of 0 to an application and does the write 'later'. Normal execution would be the app issuing the write, the OS does the write, and then sends back the resulting RC. Have the power drop at the 'right' time when files are open or in the process of being written, you could lose some data. If it is the $MFT, Registry, or a directory structure, you could have a non-bootable system... Odds of it happening, slim, but when it does.... Shutdown is there for a reason, so ALL files can be closed before the system turns off.</p> <p>I call a UPS 'cheap insurance'. As is side benefit, they all have good surge protectors build in. </p> http://www.howtogeek.com/forum/topic/1st-pc-build-ci7-looking-for-advice#post-97794 Sat, 04 Jul 2009 22:42:42 +0000 ScottW 97794@http://www.howtogeek.com/forum/ <p>Irv, I understand about being skittish around certain hard drives. I had an IBM Deskstar GXP die on me suddenly and ended up paying for some (relatively) expensive data recovery. To this day, I always pass by the Hitachi Deskstars. You'd think they would have retired the name -- I still hear "Death"star.</p> <p>Also, with the most recent <a href="http://www.howtogeek.com/forum/topic/data-recovery-firms-believe-30-of-barracuda-drives-are-failing">high failure rate embarrassment</a> belonging to Seagate and their Barracuda 7200.11, I'm a little shy of those. I certainly wouldn't trust my data to a 7200.11 with Seagate's firmware "fix". I might accept a 7200.12, but I would keep a close eye on it! :-)</p> <p>I recently got an OEM drive from Newegg and there are screws in the box, but no SATA cable. However, Newegg had several "bundles" where you basically get an inexpensive SATA cable with the drive for no extra charge. However, I agree that a new system builder should think about the retail box which would guarantee that screws and a cable are included.</p> <p>Every time I see those cute little UPS with LCD display at Sam's or Costco, I think to myself, "I should get me one of those". But, I never have since I don't really *need* one, and mostly I just want to play with it! </p> http://www.howtogeek.com/forum/topic/1st-pc-build-ci7-looking-for-advice#post-97785 Sat, 04 Jul 2009 22:18:40 +0000 ispalten 97785@http://www.howtogeek.com/forum/ <p>Scott, I just took a 32MB drive, all are reasonably priced compared to a 10,000 RPM drive. 2 drives with large cache will do almost as well if run RAID 0. RAID 0 presents its own set of 'problems'. Of the 4 computers I use, only one is RAID 0. One of the others had RAID 0 and one drive died. RAID 0 systems should have the same size and type drives for the configuration. When one drive died 4 years later, well, it was either buy 2 or revert to normal SATA at 1/2 the size. It took over a day to revert and restore. Don't forget, either of the RAID 0 drives fail and you've lost the partition(s).</p> <p>Unfortunately, the last 2 hard drives that have failed have been WD's... so I'm a little skittish on them right now. My wife and I each use our computers heavily and do leave them on all day usually. They are on UPS's though so line surges are not a problem. Still, I've had 2 in my old system die, once under warranty, and both were WD's. My wife's HP so far hasn't had a drive die, but the Sony she had prior (and is now on the LAN as a backup and storage device) did lose a WD drive. </p> <p>The drive you selected is OEM, and that might mean no mounting screws or cables/connectors. A better <a href="http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822136358">CHOICE</a> might be the GREEN RETAIL package, a little cheaper, might come with all the needed h/w, and it uses less power.</p> <p>PSU, wel l, some of that stuff is worst case too. Bigger problem is that the PSU is PFC, Power Form Corrected. According to APC's White Paper, that type of PSU needs a 25% margin in a UPS as it can draw that much more on boot-up. The video card is not the biggest around, I've seen some 2GB's card with fast GPU's that can really suck the power in.</p> <p>This new Dell I have is an Intel I7 920 with 8GB's of memory and an ATI 4870 1GB card. According to ATI that card only needs 160W's max.? I had an APC XS-1000 (600W UPS) on the system for awhile. With an LCD display hooked up to the UPS, the UPS reported only 215W's draw. This system has a PFC PSU as well. LCD's usually are estimated at 100W's and the system has a 470W PSU. Why the UPS reports so low, I don't know?</p> <p>Now recall I said 'had' for the APC unit. It was/is a BACK-UPS series, the home 'type'. The waveform could NOT keep the PFC PSU on-line and the system dropped power. I went and purchased an APC 'server' type unit, SUA1000 (also a 600W), refurbished to support the system. These new are almost $500, ridiculous for a home (we just use a computer, games, surf, etc., no work) system. PFC PSU's require that type of waveform output to get the latest STAR compliance rating it seems. Some on the Dell boards have used Corsair PSU's to replace the Dell PSU's and they appear to work fine with the 'home' UPS systems though? </p> http://www.howtogeek.com/forum/topic/1st-pc-build-ci7-looking-for-advice#post-97724 Sat, 04 Jul 2009 17:37:45 +0000 ScottW 97724@http://www.howtogeek.com/forum/ <p>Irv, nothing against Seagate, but I don't see how that drive is equivalent to a Caviar Black, <a href="http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822136320">such as this one</a>, also with a 32 MB cache and 500 GB for $80 CAD. Two of these would be double the storage -- 1 TB -- for 15% less money. By Grabthar's hammer, what a savings!</p> <p>Good point about the PSU, though. That EVGA card recommends a 12V rail with 36 amps and the Corsair provides *only* 60 amps on one rail. So, would two of these cards require 72 amps worth of 12V power? Those are some power-hungry cards! </p> http://www.howtogeek.com/forum/topic/1st-pc-build-ci7-looking-for-advice#post-97675 Sat, 04 Jul 2009 14:00:49 +0000 ispalten 97675@http://www.howtogeek.com/forum/ <p>I have 2 small comments...</p> <p>First, the motherboard says it supports RAID. If so, RAID generally outperforms a single SATA drive. Two Velociraptors, in a RAID 0 configuration will give you both size and speed, however, this will cost you about $450 more. Other choice would be <a href="http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822148309">this 32MB Cache drive</a> and 2 would run under $200 and create a 500GB drive you could partition.</p> <p>The other part I'd consider is the PSU. If you intend to go SLI, it could be low. Most multi-display systems could use more power, depending on card and memory on the card. The video card you've selected states a minimum PSU of 500W's so 2 of them might not work with the PSU you've selected. The 1,000W's are expensive, but at least think about the 850W, may not be enough, but it has a better chance than 750W's.</p> <p>Irv S. </p> http://www.howtogeek.com/forum/topic/1st-pc-build-ci7-looking-for-advice#post-97659 Sat, 04 Jul 2009 07:14:21 +0000 ScottW 97659@http://www.howtogeek.com/forum/ <p>Flo, hello. You have done your homework well! I like all of these parts and see no compatibility problems. For the hard drives, you could get a slightly smaller, high performance drive now for the OS and applications. Obviously a Velociraptor would be nice, but you could save money and still get good performance with a Caviar Black. A relatively big external drive would be good for backups and seldom used but large media files. Depending on budget, you could probably add a second internal, large size but "regular" performance such as a Caviar Blue, or equivalent.</p> <p>This is not directed at you, Flo, but could someone explain to me why on Earth does Nvidia *not* support DirectX 10.1? </p> http://www.howtogeek.com/forum/topic/1st-pc-build-ci7-looking-for-advice#post-97628 Sat, 04 Jul 2009 01:51:33 +0000 Flo 97628@http://www.howtogeek.com/forum/ <p>Hi all,</p> <p>I'm looking to create my first computer and plan to use it for media (viewing), gaming (mainly rts, eve, and a bit of FPS) &#38; internet. I've spent the past few days reading as much info as I can gather on rig setups and plan to do most of my shopping at Newegg.ca. I plan on installing 32 bit XP (I already have it) until Windows 7 is out then I will go to 7 64 bit. I am open to the idea of upgrades as I am under budget (I'm looking to hover around $1500 CAD). I've looked up many other builds with similar requirements, and I've decided I'd like to build mine around a Core I7 920 processor. However, I'm mainly concerned with compatibility and the effectiveness of some of my parts.</p> <p>I already have a 22" monitor which I would like to run my games on @ full resolution. Thus I've (hopefully) selected components to support it, as well as possible SLI in the future. I've also read the site's beginner guides to building a comp, but I'm more afraid of the process that comes after the mechanical parts are put together o.0</p> <p>What I have so far</p> <p>Case: Antec 900 - $115<br /> <a href="http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811129021"><br /> <a href="http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811129021" rel="nofollow">http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811129021</a></a></p> <p>CPU: Core I7 - $320<br /> <a href="http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819115202">http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819115202</a></p> <p>Mobo: Asus P6T Delux - $340<br /> <a href="http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131365">http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131365</a></p> <p>PSU: Corsair CMPSU 750W - $115<br /> <a href="http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139006">http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139006</a></p> <p>Video: EVGA GTX 260 core - $212<br /> <a href="http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130434">http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130434</a></p> <p>Memory: CORSAIR XMS3 6GB SDRAM DDR3 1600 - $125<br /> <a href="http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820145222">http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820145222</a></p> <p>Optical Drive: Sony Optiarc Black 24X DVD etc.. - $36<br /> <a href="http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16827118030">http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16827118030</a></p> <p>Hard drive: I'm all ears. I was thinking maybe 3 drives: one for OS, one for games, another for media (or use an external for media). I also came across a few posts talking about SSD, and I was contemplating maybe getting a decent size HDD (500gb about) for now, and when windows 7 comes out, buy an SSD to host it and any other components that would need to be on the same drive.</p> <p>Sub-total: $1263<br /> Current mail-in rebates: $60</p> <p>Total: $1200 CAD</p> <p>Cheers,<br /> Flo </p>